Benefits of Taller Bias-Ply Slicks

[Trevor008]

So the price is going to end up between $1300 and $2100 depending on what size I go with and what options. I'm going to re-measure tomorrow to ensure I can safely grind enough caliper away in order to fit 16's front and back and probably going to end up going with the more expensive yet much lighter 3 piece option on all 4 corners to get me the best acceleration. That should run me around $1700 I think. The shear grip factor alone will cut a few tenths off of my best 1/4 mile time to date and the weight savings will cut another 1-2 tenths. Even in the same 2100+ DA I think I'll be able to cut my times down to an 11.3-11.4 with the same stock turbo set-up I've been running as of late considering tht time was run with a 1.84 60' and heavier lightweight wheels than what these will be. That's pure speculation though and I will no doubt try and prove it right.

[Trevor008]

good to know. goin all out i see

I've just realized how much the track numbers for these cars have been traction limited to this point so I figured why not take a step that noody else has to rectify that. Being a pioneer in other aspects I'm sure you can appreciate that for what it is.

Bogarts are great wheels. Weld Racing makes those redonkulous gold anodized skinnies...baller status...


Its been a while since i drilled holes in bogarts and put inner tubes in them. I used to do it at my former wheel shop, a lot of SBC guys and Mustang guys had their slicks and skinnies done by us. LM when are you gonna buy a set?

Function over fashion any day of the week

lol, never. the K1's are just fine for me and this car. besides, im savin up the the overhaul you need to do on the car

You seem to always have something planned LM. Is there a specific reason why you're not even considering this upgrade? Is it because you care more about the street performance and not extracting every last tenth on the strip? With the power you are putting down I think it would benefit you a lot. I have never really cared with ast vehicles about the track performance but the older I get, the more I am gravitating towards safer track fun. I rarely push my car on the street because it just doesn't even seem to be very much worth it anymore. That's not to say that I don't do it, it just doesn't happen as often.

[Sticky]

Got an email and a couple phone calls yesterday from Dan at Bogart in reponse to my email asking for info and pricing. After speaking to him for a few minutes about options he gave me a pall park figure of around $1600 but needed some measurements before he could give me a specific quote. I just sent him that info so I should hear back from him shortly. He will be giving me pricing on 17's as well as 16's if they will fit w/ either no modification or a little grinding on the calipers. Tires and tubes are going to run me somewhere around $800 either way I go.

Very interesting, maybe we could get a discount if we ordered together?

[Trevor008]

Very interesting, maybe we could get a discount if we ordered together?

Wouldn't hurt to ask. Do you know exeactly what you are looking for and are you ready to purchase soon?

[oddjob2021]

Trapping 125 means a 5310rpm finish in 4th and trapping 130 means a 5523rpm finish. That's still in the solid power band of RB's, correct?

where do you get these figures from? i have a 6mt and 1st at redline is 40, 2nd's redline is 70, 3rd is 110, 4th is 140, 5th is 168 and 6th is 199 geared out. you should be shifting at redline imho with uppd turbos no matter which tune you have. the auto's gearing is slightly shorter at first, due to the 3.46 rear gear, but its 5th and 6th go higher in speed due to being underdriven even more. i believe the auto can crack 200 with enough power so for a 1/4th mile, the auto has the clear gearing advantage, which has always been known.

[Trevor008]

http://www.hotrodpitstop.com/tools.html#7

Use the 1/4 RPM calculater which is 1 down and 1 over from the top left corner.

I agree that the auto has clear advantages just like everybody else. I also agree that my redline mph are pretty much the same as yours. Maybe my logic is flawed and I should be using a different calculater to figure this out but that is partially why I posted this thread to begin wth, so that others can shime in and correct me if I am wrong. The statement about wanting to be at redline w/ upgraded turbos would not be correct if there is still a drop off in power, which we know that not all offered upgrades carry to redline.

I've pretty much decided that I am going to stick with a 26" tire for the time being and possibly try out a different size later on. That's just to isolate the benefits of using a slick and lighter wheel before mixing in the possible benefits/downfalls of a taller tire.

[Sticky]

Wouldn't hurt to ask. Do you know exeactly what you are looking for and are you ready to purchase soon?

I can purchase any time if the deal is good.

I just need 17's that will work with 17 inch bias-ply's and clear the M3 brakes.

[oddjob2021]

Use the 1/4 RPM calculater which is 1 down and 1 over from the top left corner.

I agree that the auto has clear advantages just like everybody else. I also agree that my redline mph are pretty much the same as yours. Maybe my logic is flawed and I should be using a different calculater to figure this out but that is partially why I posted this thread to begin wth, so that others can shime in and correct me if I am wrong. The statement about wanting to be at redline w/ upgraded turbos would not be correct if there is still a drop off in power, which we know that not all offered upgrades carry to redline.

thanks for the thorough reply, ive honestly never liked those calculators, they just use an algorithm or in the cheap case a basic formula and plug in the variables you give it. real world results are what count, dyno, vbox, drag or road racing. and i suppose your statement about uppd turbos is correct. members such as jpsimon have only a comp. wheel upgrade with a clipped turbine, done by EPL, another company, local to miami is AWD and they have a billet comp wheel with again, a clipped turbine. in this case, i honestly wouldnt call it an upp'd turbo, just a modified one. imo an uppd turbo has a comp and turbine upgrade, which falls into the category of stage 2 turbo i suppose? anyway you're right, those cars do not make peak power at redline nor sustain it, they always drop off, and sometimes worse! (from the clipped turbine being less efficient). but for those n54s with real upped turbos, power to redline is common and shifitng at redline would then become the ideal shift.

so again, dont trust those silly calculators, trust real world results, no one likes to race on paper, its plainly not nearly as fun.

[Trevor008]

...so again, dont trust those silly calculators, trust real world results, no one likes to race on paper, its plainly not nearly as fun.

Not paper racing, just proposing theories that will be tested. Paper racing is stating this is what the calculations say so this is hot it is in real life. All i was saying is that this is what the calculations are saying and I want to test them out as well as gather info from the members here.

While I agree that the hosrsepower calculators and 1/4 mile et/trap calculators are mere algorithims, the calculator that I used is strictly based on gearing and tire size. There is no hocus pocus there. it is a stout equation that holds water becase gearing does not change with other factors such as drag coefficient, hp/tq or driver ability. What the equation does is take into account the tire size, final drive, and mph you wish to achieve then give you the rpm that your engine will be spinning at in order to go that fast. It is a well known fact that you can calculate speed based on tire size, gearing and rpm and all the above calculator does is rearrange the formula to find the rpm based on the other variables.

Again, not stating that with the mods I am talking about doing my car will be XX fast I'm just saying that the figures say that is the case and I will be testing based on that info to try and achieve the same results. For all I know what I have read and said may be completely false and it will hurt my track times.

Not to be a dick, and I have no reason to discredit anything you have done but another definition of paper racing is waiting until the weather drops considerably to race or dyno your car. The reality is that you drive your car through the summer heat and it performs based on the numbers of the day. Aren't you curious what your car puts down in the heat since you are running it in the heat? I ran my car in 2000+ DA the other day and still put down decent times. They weren't record breaking but they are an accurate representation of how my car is running during the summer. Too many guys wait until dead of winter to dyno to get glory numbers and wait until deep fall to run their cars so that their cars appear to be faster than they are. The only reason I am saying any of this is because I saw a post that said you were going to wait until it got cooler to dyno and you also posted in my dyno number thread and said something about "glory run" when the set-up i was running was my true street set-up all the way down to the gas used. Again, no disrespect intended but life is a 2 way street man. Hold yourself to the standards you hold others to.

[Sticky]

While I agree that the hosrsepower calculators and 1/4 mile et/trap calculators are mere algorithims, the calculator that I used is strictly based on gearing and tire size. There is no hocus pocus there. it is a stout equation that holds water becase gearing does not change with other factors such as drag coefficient, hp/tq or driver ability.

Absolutely true.

[oddjob2021]

is waiting until the weather drops considerably to race or dyno your car. The reality is that you drive your car through the summer heat and it performs based on the numbers of the day. Aren't you curious what your car puts down in the heat since you are running it in the heat? I ran my car in 2000+ DA the other day and still put down decent times. They weren't record breaking but they are an accurate representation of how my car is running during the summer. Too many guys wait until dead of winter to dyno to get glory numbers and wait until deep fall to run their cars so that their cars appear to be faster than they are. The only reason I am saying any of this is because I saw a post that said you were going to wait until it got cooler to dyno and you also posted in my dyno number thread and said something about "glory run" when the set-up i was running was my true street set-up all the way down to the gas used. Again, no disrespect intended but life is a 2 way street man.

i really like the way you handle yourself, not being too forward or aggressive, yet poking for a reply. we can have great conversations (forum based) back and forth in the future. so in response, i cant really argue against what you said, it is all very valid. i could dyno fairly soon, the car is running great, and i could get a representation of how its running in the summer, you're right. i also have to coordinate 2 pretty busy friends (compared to me) and then another member (has a 335 with tune only) here who is only available on the weekends. some of the dynos aren't open on the weekend so it complicates things. if i go alone though, i would have to go to a place where i have a baseline, always nice to see a delta instead of runs only for that day. oh and the glory run statement, i made that after looking at the chart itself, looking at the afr especially, it was running extra extra lean for about 800-900 revs early in the band, then went back to a normal n54 afr curve, so thats the only reason i called it glory, no disrespect intended. oh and its always hot in miami even in winter, day time temps stay in the mid 80s. i was looking more for a drop in humidity, its the rainy/hurricane season here and we've been more than lucky with the last few storms that came to Florida.

[Trevor008]

i really like the way you handle yourself, not being too forward or aggressive, yet poking for a reply. we can have great conversations (forum based) back and forth in the future.

Thank you, sir.... I agree

oh and the glory run statement, i made that after looking at the chart itself, looking at the afr especially, it was running extra extra lean for about 800-900 revs early in the band, then went back to a normal n54 afr curve, so thats the only reason i called it glory, no disrespect intended.

I understand completely and I noticed that you didn't continue on that path after I said that adjustments to fuel settings and meth mix would be made, which they have.

Again, I didn't mean any harm by the statements about you dynoing. I think I speak for most people on this forum when I say I would like to see what your car is putting down with your new turbos. It's always good to see data.

[LostMarine]

You seem to always have something planned LM. Is there a specific reason why you're not even considering this upgrade? Is it because you care more about the street performance and not extracting every last tenth on the strip? With the power you are putting down I think it would benefit you a lot.

well, it goes to the beginning, where i didnt buy this car to make it what it is today. i wanted cheap performance mods that added just a tad more fun. Only reason, im more known than some people, is events happened (burnt turbos) and i pushed just a little more to get RB's as a replacement, certain events fell into place with that allowing me the prototypes, and the ball started rolling on leading the charge. but back to basics, still only on a budget with no real agenda to break records, so the K1's are fine for what i want/wanted